A Project by Aitor Throup
The Goggle Jacket is the reason why I became a designer. Back in Burnley where I (partly) grew up it was a cultural icon utilised almost as a status symbol. What the Goggle Jacket did for me was that it opened the doors to the world of the design, and so I began to become more aware and passionate about brands such as C.P. Company, Stone Island, Boneville, Left Hand, World Wide Web, and of course Massimo Osti Production. I have drawn for as long as I can remember, and clothing became a natural platform through which I could develop all the ideas that had so far been limited to the two-dimensional constraints of pencil and paper.
The Goggle Jacket taught and formed me, and through my studies I strived to replicate an approach to design which could equal the precision and integrity of what I considered (and still consider) to be the pinnacle of design.
My goal is still to develop (even 'invent') functional features which are dictated and justified by a narrative or point of origin.
Massimo Osti's iconic design was first released as a gift, as part of C.P. Company's sponsorship involvement in the '988 edition of the iconic Mille Miglia (One Thousand Miles) Italian open road endurance race, this is why it is often called 'Mille Miglia' jacket. Its design features embodied the notions of functionality and innovation. The Mille Miglia race, since the first edition in 1927, traditionally consisted of some of the most beautiful and fastest road cars, most of which were typically roadsters. Osti ingeniously considered this when building hinging goggles into the hood of his jacket. With the use of another plastic insert, he created a window on the left sleeve through which a driver could check his watch whilst driving.
It is, needless to say, a true honour to have been asked by Carlo Rivetti, owner of C.P. Company, to design and develop a re-worked version of my personal design icon to celebrate 20 years since its release. The basis of my approach has simply been to take Massimo Osti's classic back to the race itself. I have taken a literal approach to driving ergonomics and functionality, with the aim of creating a piece which is even further informed by its driving concept than the original.
The overall structure and balance of the piece has been constructed around a human form in a driving position (the arms are forward and slightly bent, and there is excess volume built into the back) in order to maximise driving comfort. There is a completely unique feature that allows the volume of the lower part of the jacket to morph from a standard 'standing' position, into a more complex 'driving' position, eliminating awkward fabric build up when sitting, and creating a waterproof cover for the legs.
The hood has been completely re-constructed, which not only results in an anatomically accurate fit, but also is able to fit over a traditional driving helmet when the draw cords are relaxed. The goggles section has benefited from a more ergonomic construction, including a deeper nose ridge and a closer fitting shape; and the goggles themselves have become circular, mirroring the watch viewer, and creating an aesthetic which is reminiscent of the one of its racing origins.
The placement of the watch window itself has been considered, and the driver can now easily glance at his watch through his sleeve whilst driving. The watch viewer also interacts seamlessly with the detachable padded lining and with the accompanying gloves, which not only offer further protection against the cold and wet conditions when needed, but also provide helpful steering wheel grip. A detachable driving pouch is included, which can also act as a protective case for gadgets such as cameras, and can be easily accessed when driving. The fabric use also manages to encapsulate the integrity and authenticity of the concept, allowing the wearer to remain warm and dry throughout the multiple conditions encountered during the race, considering that the majority of cars were cabriolets. The material itself is a 3-layers GORE-TEX® Performance Shell fabric with a waterproof membrane, and every seam is finished with GORE-SEAM® waterproof thermo-taping. Most interestingly however, is the appearance we have managed to give this material, by means of a natural pigment garment dyeing process called 'Tinto Terra', which quite literally utilises natural pigments extracted from soil and earth, which embeds the garment with the rich visual identity of C.P. Company.
From Concept to Reality
- GORE-SEAM®waterproof thermo-taping.
- New ergonomic shape detachable hood and goggles.
- New round shape goggles.
- 3 layer GORE-TEX®PERFORMANCE SHELL fabric.
- Ergonomic driving shoulder construction.
- Ergonomic elbow articulation.
- New waterproof chest pocket construction.
- New ergonomic watch viewer placement.
- Internal hidden zipped pockets exposed when driving.
- Driving gloves attach to jacket.
- Transforming articulated driving flap/leg cover.
- Waterproofed traditional shape front pockets.
- Detachable driving pouch with two compartments.
- Adjustable cuffs can be zipped up.
