J.P. SARTRE COAT 1988-1989

By CP Company Store
Posted in Archive, on September 21, 2015

In 1989, Osti created a piece that was inspired by research from his own archive. While looking through the military uniforms, books and magazines he had collected, Massimo found a photograph of Jean-Paul Sartre taken by Henri Cartier-Bresson and was impressed by the informal elegance of the philosopher's coat.

Osti took details from the original coat and transformed its design; his attention to detail was prodigious and the final product has become a key part of the C.P. Company archive. In reality, the structure of the coat is relatively simple, yet its functional characteristics helped it to maintain a strong identity of its own throughout many collections in which its design was progressively altered.

Through various different technical innovations including rubber coating, padded insulation and net lining Massimo added further versatility to the design over a number of seasons. The first J.P. Sartre coats C.P. Company produced for the AW '88 collection were made from sheepskin leather (as pictured above), or garment dyed emery brushed cotton with a rubber wool lining (as pictured below).

The second version was produced in leather with a shawl collar and contrasting details; inside it has a quilted padded lining backed with netting. As can be seen in the image below, the quality of the materials and construction were paramount to Massimo Osti throughout.

C.P. Company then went on to produce a third version that was notable for accurately replicating the original worn by J.P. Sartre, minus the yoke, but with a fur collar that was removable thanks to leather loops and buttons.

These pieces still inspire C.P. Company's latest collections, which continue to develop the structure of this 25-year old design through the use of new materials and innovative production methods, as can be seen in this season's Anniversary Collection of coats and jackets.

(Images courtesy of the Massimo Osti Archive)