Posted in News, on February 13, 2020
Experimentation and colour have always been at the core of C.P. Company’s creative philosophy, ever since the early 1970s when Massimo Osti was laying the foundations with his revolutionary garment dyeing process. It’s been almost fifty years since Mr. Osti paved the way for a new approach to tone and texture, and whilst so much has changed in the decades that have passed, C.P. Company still remains dedicated to pushing the boundaries of what’s possible with colour, consistency and function. To move forward, the design team have looked backwards, investigating two of the brand’s foundational colours - Olive Drab and Navy Blue - both of which are explicit references to C.P. Company’s roots in vintage military uniform and workwear.
For SS '20, these classic colourways have been combined with the cutting edge of our proprietary performance fabrics, including the brand new M.T.t.N and summer-weight NyBer, pushing vintage tones into novel and unexpected territories. Multi Tension trilobate Nylon combines an opaque taslan warp and a brilliant trilobatic weft with a twisted cord finishing process - a technique that was a staple of early 1980s sportswear, and was, unsurprisingly, pioneered by C.P. Company. The result is a quick-drying and water-resistant textile with a crisp, fractured finish, which responds to the garment dye process with a previously unattainable sharpness of tone. This update of an iconic vintage style speaks to the overarching ethos of the SS '20 collection: to revolutionise through retrospection, and to make the past new again.
NyBer is a next generation nylon coating with a rubberised element, which forms a water-resistant membrane with an entirely windproof construction, and is available in two weight classes designed for varying temperatures and purposes. All pieces that utilise NyBer are garment dyed specifically with our AnTic process (Antique Tinto in capo), a spin-off of the Re-Colour technique from previous seasons, in which a cold pigment is applied to the piece after the initial garment dye. This secondary treatment adds a second layer of tonality, which permeates the surface of the fabric without altering the piece’s initial pigmentation, resulting in a deeper, more complex hue than was previously feasible.
This notion of classic and contemporary elements combining is further emphasised by a greater and more considered use of traditional, natural textiles throughout the SS '20 collection, such as the inimitable 50 Fili and pure linen fabrics. Both have been coated with resin-based pigmentations, weather-proofing each piece whilst simultaneously highlighting the distinct grains and weaves of these textiles, with a finish that mimics the results of garment dyeing.
This enhanced focus on lightweight, intermediate layers reflects the wearer’s needs in a contemporary urban environment, with respect to both function and styling: shirts have been deconstructed and recomposed, and sweatshirts become closer to multi-purpose outerwear solutions, cut in combinations of breathable and protective materials with technical pockets and partitions. C.P. Company’s SS '20 collection is both an homage to the brand’s illustrious history - exploring our identity and essential heritage - and a beckoning to our bright future.